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Reviewed by Fiona Richmond, Head of Regional Food, Scotland Food & Drink
Like me, if the name Elizabeth David brings a sense of awe and admiration, then this book is for you. First published in 1950, it has been 30 years since A Book of Mediterranean Food was available in hardback. But now, thanks to Anne Dolamore of Grub Street Publishing (and a fellow member of Les Dames London, a philanthropic association that supports women in food, drink and hospitality), this treasure is back in print as a facsimile edition.
The cover alone, beautifully illustrated by John Minton, instantly transports you to sunnier climes, to a balcony with seafood, salad and wine, overlooking the sea—a taste of what’s to come inside.
In her introduction, David says “The cooking of the Mediterranean shores, endowed with all the natural resources, the colour and flavour of the South, is a blend of brilliant improvisation. The Latin genius flashes from the kitchen pans”
And those colours and flavours jump from the pages that follow, in a way that has influenced so many luminaries of the food world that we know today, from Jamie Oliver to Jeremy Lee. She brought sunshine into kitchens and inspired the world with ingredients which, way back in the ‘50s were nothing short of exotic, from the now ubiquitous olive oil, pistachios, almonds, aubergines, tomatoes and goat's cheese.
It's hard to imagine what a revelation it was back then to read of such ingredients, but also a way of eating, focused on the sheer pleasure of dishes bursting with local flavours unique to varying parts of the Mediterranean, from Italy and France to Turkey and Greece. In under 200 pages, David talks us through all manner of courses and ingredients – soups, eggs, fish, meat, salads preserves and more – from across this diverse region, with recipes inspired by local specialities and traditions as well as her own culinary experiments during her travels.
But it’s the stories and anecdotes, too, that will bring joy, too. She describes travelling some distance to a hotel restaurant in France, renowned for its cookery. Arriving when service was ending, she explains:
“The landlord and lady in the kitchen said that we were unfortunately too late for a proper meal, but they would see what they could do for us”. And what they did indeed: 11 dishes effortlessly appeared on the table including omelette nature; jambon du pays’; ris de veau blanquette; fromage Roquefort and poires. "
We can imagine such a scene and may have similar, fond memories of being offered hospitality like that, when the kitchen is closed but the owners still have such an innate desire to feed us wonderful food. Moments like that never leave us.
We all owe David a great debt. So, when you are next tucking into a Mediterranean feast at home, or in your local favourite restaurant, think of her and what she did to bring vibrant, sun-soaked flavours to our tables. And if you get your hands on the book, pour a glass of wine, rustle up an omelette and immerse yourself in her evocative words.
***
Copies of the book can be purchased from Grub Street at £14.99
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