‘Barry’ is a Scottish word for good and a man’s name.
This explanation of Scottish slang is on the windows underneath the restaurant title 'Barry Fish' scheduled to open in February.
I visit the site and the eponymous Barry Bryson tells me that some people don’t get the play on words and think it is merely a nickname for the pop-up and private chef known for his love of all things pescatarian.
This is Barry's first restaurant at the fruitful age of 49. He has opened Barry Fish with husband Robin who is bleeding a radiator when I arrive at the embryonic restaurant. Robin is the design whizz behind the new premises which was one-half of Mimi’s Bakehouse. The connecting arch has been blocked and the walls painted a warm biscuity Farrow & Ball ‘Cord’. There will also be accents of F&B Bancha, a seaweed green, and golden scallop-shaped tiles for the bar while banquettes will trace the line of two walls. The pass is a portal to the kitchen meaning you get to see the action.
The design reflects the ethos behind Barry’s cooking. He wants the restaurant to be a glowy, (tungsten yellow lights), flowy, convivial place where people can enjoy light bites (until 3 pm), or big snacks served from 4.30 pm - 6.30 pm which will double as starters for dinner from 6 pm. Barry assures me people can relax without the stress of table-turning and there will be meat options too (beef cheek bourguignon, chicken koftas). As I speak to Barry and Robin, I imagine glasses clinking, corks popping and people chatting over forkfuls of delicious food.
If you are a fish lover, you may have noticed that it has become scarcer on menus since the pandemic. This is due to its justifiable expense but comes alongside tighter budgets. William McCurragh OBE and retired Head of Food and City of Glasgow College once told me he used to show his catering students the first episode of Trawlermen, so they understood the real value of fish. As two skippers go head-to-head in a ‘great prawn hunt’, the opening sentence of the programme declares: “Every day trawlermen from Peterhead in Northeast Scotland risk their lives to bring home their catch to put fish on our tables.”
But be still your racing hearts, I have seen the prices on the menu, and they are very reasonable and far from coronary-inducing. Barry Fish joins a lineup of independent restaurants in the city which I hope we can support.
Expect a fish-based menu that combines classic French cooking techniques (there will be butter and sauces!) with the Spanish sensibility of ‘gusto’ and top Scottish produce – all served in the unique and beautiful setting of The Shore in Leith. A 'Summer Series' with guest chefs is also promised. Dishes such as Eyemouth crab focaccia, Barry fish pastrami, aioli, chicory, dried grapes and Loch Fyne Oysters, half-shelled lobster - smoked salmon agnolotti, brown butter sauce, capers, pickled fennel and Leith Lyonnaise potatoes sounds like food from the heart that will satisfy your belly.
Barry Fish, 62 The Shore - bookings January 17 for opening February
