Cata - a ray of Spanish sunshine in Stockbridge by Anne Pia

Cata is the new venture from Iggy Campos

There’s a lot of caffeine in Stockbridge! Here be a clutch of baristas at their professional best. For dark-hearted roasts that titillate, soothe, or fire you up in the morning, Artisan Roast, Fortitude, Twelve Triangles, Two Children, Leo’s Beanery, and La Barantine all offer a great brew.

Coffee is not the whole Stockbridge story, however. This food hub of our vibrant city is also home to Lannan’s award-winning bakery, two of the best cheesemongers in the Capital: Mellis and George Mewes; Harkness Pies, its windows layered with freshly baked pies and soft flaking sausage rolls; new arrival Civerino’s, where people with folded pizza slices by the handful mass in doorways and roadways; and Franco’s, where the golden fry, fish and chips, must be one of the best around.

Tom Kitchin’s Scran ‘n Scallie is an established favourite in Stockbridge; alongside Radicibus, an under-the-stairs contemporary space for creative Italian fine dining, and you can always enjoy a distinctive, smooth Côtes du Rhône with crusty, plump chips or a memorable, chunky club sandwich at the reliable, cosy but cool Raeburn Hotel. On a summer Sunday, Stockbridge streets morph into an open-air eatery where locals and tourists amble or randomly sit, whilst enjoying fat gyoza from Harajuku, or a Mellis handmade, black pudding scotch egg bought at the Farmers’ Market; while the smoky, aroma of paella and paprika blows through the trees and the Georgian and neo-classical streets of the dignified New Town.

Handcarved Jamon

No surprise then that Ignacio Campos of Iggs repute, has opened in this Mecca of cosmopolitan sophisticated gourmandise. Cata is an absolute delight from the moment you cross the threshold.

Light wood high tables with a select pintxos list… sobrasada with honey and walnuts and morcilla with Granny Smith apple sauce, give the warm, spacious interior something of the feel of a San Sebastián food stop in the Parte Vieja. While traditional tables and a rich list of tablas…meat, cheese or both; olives house-style, jamón hand-carved on the counter to order; or a well-considered offering of out-of-the-ordinary tapas…  Fabada (white bean soup), chorizo cooked in cider, glazed aubergines and caramelised red onions, and Spanish ratatouille topped with a runny soft-boiled egg, will entice you to stay and indeed stray a little. The wine list is extensive and interesting. Beers, dessert wines, cocktails and vermouths complete the drinks list and the waiting staff are welcoming and passionate about what is on offer.

This is a tapería of distinction.

We choose seats at the bar and feast on Grandpa’s meatballs, soft, rich and crumbling, offset by a sweet, pea purée to waken the palate; so good we order a second plateful. Canary Island potatoes… purple and white, set in sauces both rojo and verde, the one spicy and the other a gentle balm are an excellent, well-balanced pairing and the guindilla pepper with anchovy, olive and a “dice” of cheese pintxos adds that culinary piquancy, that Spanish flair for an earthy taste that calls us to eat tapas time and time again. A robust, well-structured D.O.P. Costers del Segre rosé wine stands up well, as does the velvety, rich DO Toro red we choose for the tabla de quesos. This is no ordinary cheese plate. Cata in name, it is a well-curated tasting of creaminess, robustness and crumbling delicate wedges. A garnish of light crackers allows the cheese space to shine.

Sadly, we have no room for the Spanish rice pudding, nor even for the burnt Basque cheesecake. But with a future booking in the diary and excellent espressos, we go home happy.

Cata: 30 N W Circus Place, Edinburgh, EH3 6TP

Opening times Lunch 12-4 pm; Dinner 5-11 pm; (Food until 9:30 pm)

Anne is the author of Magnaccioni, My Food, My Italy